In the coastal village of Kumta, nestled between the hills and the sea, lies Nagarabail, a place where the centuries-old art of salt-making thrives. Here, the Sanikatta Salt Producers Cooperative Society stands as a symbol of resilience, tradition, and community. Sanikatta’s history dates back to 1720 when a salt pan was established, and the journey to this place was once a long, difficult trek until Sannu Nayak, a local leader, built a bundh to shorten the route. This act gave rise to the name “Sannu Nayakana Katte,” now known as Sanikatte. Over time, landowners united to form a cooperative society that began with 50 members and has since grown to over 300, mostly from the Chitrapur Saraswat community. Despite challenges like the migration of educated landowners for jobs, the cooperative has thrived, supported by strong community ties and government backing.

At the heart of Sanikatta’s legacy are the Agers—skilled labourers who have perfected the craft of salt-making for generations. Their traditional process involves collecting seawater, allowing it to evaporate under the sun, and harvesting brown salt, a prized local delicacy. Even though the government has suggested switching to white salt production, the community remains committed to its traditional methods, valuing the health benefits and unique taste of their product. However, Sanikatta faces difficulties, especially during the monsoon season when heavy rains disrupt production, increasing costs and reducing yields. Despite these obstacles, the cooperative produced 7,500 metric tons of salt last year, showcasing their resilience and determination.

The story of Sanikatta’s labourers is equally compelling. Originally working for Saraswat landowners during agricultural off-seasons, they shifted to salt-making and have since seen improvements in their working conditions. Where wages were once exclusive to husbands, today both spouses earn equal pay, along with weekly offs and bonuses, fostering a fair and supportive work environment. As Sanikatta pursues a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, it not only preserves its heritage but also paves the way for a sustainable future. In a world of rapid change, Sanikatta stands as a beacon of unity, health, and tradition, a powerful testament to the enduring spirit of its people.

Prashanth Ramappa is a researcher who cares deeply about protecting coastal ecosystems and the Western Ghats. With a Master’s in Fisheries Resource and Management, he works to find sustainable ways to support both nature and communities.