In the coastal landscapes of the Gulf of Mannar, Palmyrah jaggery stands as a symbol of tradition and
sustainability. Made from the sap of the Palmyrah tree, this natural sweetener is cherished for its deep,
complex flavor, setting it apart from conventional sugarcane jaggery.
Muneswaran, a resident of Nadumanekaadu, has inherited the art of toddy tapping from his late father.
Every morning from March to June, he climbs his three aged Palmyrah trees to collect fresh sap, gathering
nearly 10 liters daily. The sap is then boiled for two hours using dried Palmyrah materials as fuel. His wife
assists in pouring the thickened syrup into coconut shells, where it solidifies within minutes. Unlike in the
past, when Palmyrah jaggery was produced on a larger scale, Muneswaran now makes it solely for his
family’s use, preserving a fading tradition.
Once a thriving industry, Palmyrah jaggery production has dwindled due to the widespread availability of
white sugar and the diminishing number of Palmyrah trees. These trees, once integral to rural economies,
are now being felled for timber and fuel in brick kilns. As the demand for this eco-friendly sweetener
declines, so does the knowledge and livelihood of toddy tappers.
Despite these challenges, families like Muneswaran’s continue their age-old practice, ensuring that
Palmyrah jaggery remains a part of their food culture. Their story is a testament to resilience and the quiet
endurance of a heritage at risk of disappearing.
Prashanth Ramappa is a researcher who cares deeply about protecting coastal ecosystems and the
Western Ghats. With a Master’s in Fisheries Resource and Management, he works to find sustainable ways
to support both nature and communities.