On the outskirts of Bellary town, nestled near the prehistoric site of Sanganakallu, lies a village where life revolves around the rhythm of farming. On one side, ancient rocky hills whisper stories of the Stone Age; on the other, the fertile irrigated plains come alive during the chilli harvest season.

Green chilies are more than just a crop here — they are an essential part of the local lifestyle, culture, and cuisine.

In Bellary, a trip is never complete without tasting the famous mirchi bajjis. From roadside tea stalls to home kitchens and hotel menus, these spicy green chilli fritters are found everywhere. Slit, dipped in gram flour batter mixed with carom seeds, and deep-fried in hot oil — the mirchi bajji is served hot with puffed rice and a strong cup of tea. Even in the peak of May, under the scorching sun, people enjoy this fiery snack. I was surprised to see locals in Hampi enjoying piping hot bajjis and tea even at noon. My friend from Mysore was amazed — “Hot snacks in this hot weather?” — but that’s how strong the bond with spice is in this region.

Green chilli is a staple vegetable in every kitchen here, almost as essential as salt. It is grown abundantly along with crops like sorghum and paddy, thanks to the favourable soil and irrigation systems in and around Bellary.

When I visited Sanganakallu one afternoon, after the sun had slightly softened, I saw dozens of women in the chilli fields, bent over, harvesting. The green fields glowed under the harsh light, but the women, wearing a cloth around their heads and hands, worked in harmony. A small irrigated branch canal, connected to one of the two major channels — the Tungabhadra High-Level Canal (HLC) or Low-Level Canal (LLC) — ran beside the fields. That day, the water was flowing only slightly. I was told that water is released on alternate days from the feeder canals.

Thanks to this regulated irrigation and fertile land, green chillies thrive. The women harvest the chillies and take brief breaks before weighing the produce. Merchants from nearby towns and even from neighboring Andhra Pradesh — Anantapur, Guntakal, and Hyderabad — arrive to buy the harvest on the spot. The field becomes a temporary market where merchants weigh and purchase directly.

These green chillies are mostly used fresh. If the farmers want to produce dried red chillies, they leave the chillies on the plant until they ripen and turn red. Once harvested, they are spread out on open land to sun-dry. When properly dried, they are packed and processed using traditional methods.

Shiva is an avid field explorer of history and the environment and is Project Field Researcher at FAIR.