Nouka Baich, a traditional boat racing sport, has its roots in medieval Bengal’s river piracy. According to legend, sleek, long boats were used by pirates to ambush merchant vessels, plundering their cargo. Renowned author Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay immortalized this legacy in his works, including his novel “Devi Chaudhurani”, which tells the story of a woman who becomes a leader in the fight against the British. The British colonial authorities eventually put an end to piracy, and the Baich boats were repurposed for racing. Today, annual competitions continue to thrill spectators.
The Nouka Baich tradition is deeply rooted in Bengal’s riverine culture, which has a rich history of cultural exchange and syncretism. While Mansa is a Hindu deity, the boatmen and participants in the Nouka Baich tradition may come from diverse religious backgrounds.
I recently attended a Nouka Baich event in Ghushighata village, where I witnessed the excitement of the boat races firsthand. The event was held on the Bidyedhari river, and we watched from a Bengal Police boat. The boats themselves were striking, with slim, country-crafted designs reminiscent of those found in Kerala. Each boat was manned by 22 skilled boatmen.
The three-round race was thrilling, with the boats speeding across the water. Some boats capsized in the shallow, polluted water, but our river police boat and other vessels assisted in the rescue efforts.
The event was accompanied by a lively fair, complete with rides, trampolines, food stalls and blaring music. Betting games were conducted openly, despite the police presence. The polluted river, where no fish survive, result of industrial and tannery waste, poses significant environmental challenges faced by these communities and eventually us.
Ronodeb Paul is a documentary filmmaker based in Kolkata who loves to focus on people’s lives, histories, and untold stories.
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